How To Setup A Gold Fish Tank
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Easy Step To Set Up A Gold Fish Tank
Goldfish are the most common pet found in households today! They have been kept as pets longer than any other species of fish. Although there are many varieties, all goldfish belong to just one species: Carassius auratus. Because of this, goldfish are similar in their behavior, required care and habits. Goldfish are not tropical fish and will rarely require a heated aquarium.
Setting up an indoor aquarium is a challenging, but rewarding, hobby. Setup your goldfish tank correctly and it will be much easier to maintain and manage the aquarium. Many factors are involved in the success of a tank, and there are many books available to assist the novice fishkeeper.
Selecting your equipment
First, you must decide on the size tank you wish to operate. When it comes to the setup of the fish tank generally the bigger the tank the better. It is easier to maintain the correct chemical balance in a larger tank and most goldfish hobbyists who start with a small tank soon want to upgrade to a larger tank. A good beginning size is generally thought to be around 55 gallons.
The size of the tank will determine the size of the stand needed to hold your aquarium. Be sure to take into account the finished weight of the tank, including all equipment, fish, rocks / gravel, ornaments, and of course, the heaviest component – the water. One gallon (4.5 liters) of water weighs 10lbs (4.5kgs).
When setting up your gold fish tank place a layer of polystyrene, rubber or other impact absorbing material between the tank and the stand. Failure to buffer the bottom of the tank can lead to “pressure points” which make tanks more vulnerable to cracking.
Clean your tank and all equipment that will go in the tank thoroughly. Do not skip this step just because the tank looks shiny and new - your fish could die due to left over contaminants that can dissolve in the water.
Set up you gold fish tank away from direct sunlight, which will cause algal growth in the tank. Also position the tank away from drafts and room heaters that can cause adverse temperature changes.
Choose lighting and filtration that are appropriate for the size of your tank and the number of fish you wish to keep. Your pet store or fish supplier will be able to advise you on the appropriate equipment. Not providing adequate amounts of light and poorly circulated water can lead to serious problems (like algae) that are detrimental to fish health. Purchasing appropriate lights and filters at the time you are setting up your gold fish aquarium will make the job much easier.
You may also need to purchase a water test kit. Maintaining the correct water balance is crucial to the success of the aquarium. pH levels and nitrates are the most crucial components to monitor – some suggest the former should be checked at least weekly and the latter every other week.
Aquarium cycling
Once all of the gravel and equipment is installed it’s time to fill the tank with water and test its chemical stability. In the initial setup of the goldfish tank, it’s fine to add the full amount of water and add chlorine neutralizer if your tap water contains chlorine.
Test that all the equipment is working and run the filter for at least 48 hours to stabilize the water.
Now you can start adding fish to your tank. Starting with at least two test fish is advisable – these fish will produce waste that will need to be removed from the system, and the better your tank handles this task, the better the environment will be for your fish.
Monitoring your test fish will alert you to any problems – they are equivalent of the canary in the mineshaft. Make any necessary adjustments to the water chemistry before adding the remainder of you fish.
Adding aquatic plants when you setup the goldfish tank will also assist in maintaining a healthy balance in the water.
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3 Responses to “How To Setup A Gold Fish Tank”
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February 9th, 2008 at 2:02 pm
Hi, I am on Day #9 with my 28 gallon set-up.
I have 2 Hi-Fin Banded Sharks,and 4 Fan-Tailed Goldfish. During the first three days my readings were in the norm. These are my readings for all 9 days:
Water Temp pH Ammonia Nitrite
Day 1 68-70 8.0 0.6 0
Day 2 68-70 7.8 0.0 0
Day 3 68-70 7.6 0.6 0
Day 4 70 7.6 0.6 0.1
Day 5 70-72 7.6 0.6 0.3
Day 6 70-72 7.6 0.6 0.3
Day 7 72 7.6 1.2 0.3
Day 8 70-72 7.6 2.4 0.8
Day 9 70-72 7.6 1.2 0.3
Note: Yesterday (day
I did a 20% water change due to the high levels of ammmonia and nitrites.
My water was also really cloudy.
This morning the water is looking better but everything is still out of the norm.
What can I do to bring my pH, ammonia and nitrites down to the normal levels.
Looking forward to hearing from you in the near future.
Best Regards,
Lorrie.
February 9th, 2008 at 10:16 pm
Lorrie, it’s possible that you added too many fish to your new aquarium at one time.
Try another water change. You may need to make several water changes during this period to try to reduce the ammonia levels. Make sure that the new water is the same temperature as the aquarium.
Reduce feedings so additional waste is not produced. If your fish are showing signs of serious distress then the use of chemicals to neutralize the ammonia is recommended.
February 12th, 2008 at 2:26 pm
Lorrie You may need more plants. I also found excess light is a problem, artificial light 8 hours, tops. Also, check for decaying plant matter or possibly a dead fish. They sometimes become wedged into crevices on the bottom of the tank. A bubble bar might be helpful to incorporate more oxygen into the environment. Of course, change the filter. You may need to do this often during the first few weeks until your aquarium becomes established. Good luck. It’s very rewarding Marguerite